| Author: |
Tom Hughes |
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'VERSATILE, BUT HEAVY AND NOT CHEAP' |
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| Strengths: |
Very versatile device, can be used as an ascender, and to back up an abseil, and is frequently used for self belay on a fixed line, however this is NOT recommended by Petzl. It is generally preferred as it is possible to clamp two strands of rope, so a pulled through top rope can be used locking onto both strands, generally indoors where one cannot tie off the rope at the top. You can feed rope through it, rather than just sliding it up the rope like a 'jumar' type device. |
| Weaknesses: |
Its heavy! and quite bulky, a prussic will do the same job for 1/30th of the price and a fraction of the weight, most of the time. Its also £30!
If used for self lining it is important that steps are taken to minimise both the chance of shock loading the Shunt, as it may fail, and also of grabbing the body when it is unweighted. It is not designed for use like this! |
| Overall: |
I have used my Shunt for protecting abseils, removing gear from routes I have abandoned, on abseil, as an ascender when moving holds on an indoor wall, and for self lining. For each activity there would have probably been a better/lighter/cheaper tool, however, as a 'jack of all trades, master of none' the Shunt stands alone! It inspires confidence, and is a great tool. It is not really a tool for the mountains though, at nearly 200g and unlike prussic loops, you cannot cut it up for abseil tat! |
| Breakdown |
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Overall Rating |
| Performance |
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80% |
| Reliability |
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100% |
| Value |
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80% |
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